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Home » Questions

Question: Shooting a city skyline at night

Submitted by Steven on Tuesday, 10 February 2009One Comment
Question: Shooting a city skyline at night

A photographer in San Diego is wondering how to get the best shot of a cityscape at night. Pro photographer David Allio answers with information from his upcoming book, “101 Things Every Photographer Should Know.”


CC in San Diego asks:

I am having trouble finding a setting that will take a picture of a skyline, more specifically down town San Diego from the bay, at night with any sort of detail. It just comes out as blobs of blurry color. Can you recommend a setting I should be using?

Thank you for your time!

Sincerely

CC

 

 

Hi CC,

 

Cityscapes and skylines may be similar to landscapes based on the scope and interest of the scene. Cityscape and skyline photography involves basic landscape photography considerations, plus architecture, activity, and artificial light. The output of ambient light from a city may appear bright, but exposures after dark generally begin at ISO 400 f/4 at 1/15th second and may vary significantly depending upon the type and quantity of the light source.

Three of the most common problems encountered in skyline and cityscape photography are:

1)Camera shake due to insufficient support at low light.

2)Color balance due to variations in ambient light sources.

3)Insufficient depth of field resulting in foreground and background blurring, or out of focus pictures due to inaccurate auto-focus.

 

Light Sources

On The Strip in Las Vegas, for example, there are a variety of light sources, including daylight, spotlights, millions of tungsten-filament bulbs, and over 15,000 miles of neon. After dark, when in doubt, incandescent is the most likely white balance setting on digital cameras. Daylight film requires an 80A filter. The color temperature difference between existing, artificial light and an on-camera flash may vary as much as 5000K.

 

Tripods and other supports

Low-level ambient, existing light and slow shutter speeds demand camera support. Portable tripods are helpful, but bulky and difficult to maneuver in crowds. Monopods are an option. A variation on the monopod is a pocket device that consists of a five-foot piece of small link chain with a screw that fits into the mount on the bottom of the camera. The chain drops from the bottom of the camera to the ground where the free end is secured underfoot. Tension is then applied to the chain for stability. (The device was a present from a participant at one of the conventions where I was a guest speaker. Again, thank you very much.) A third choice is to use existing supports, such as fences, posts, and even the ground.

 

Freezing Motion

Streets are filled with hustle and bustle. There is motion everywhere. One element of the creative decision-making process is to determine how to best present the movement of those surroundings. Faster shutter speeds increase the probability of freezing the motion. Under ambient or existing light, the trade-off for faster shutter speeds is an increase in ISO and/or larger aperture settings resulting in the loss of depth-of-field. Insufficient depth-of-field results in pictures that contain elements that may appear in focus while other elements, usually in the foreground or background, appear blurry because they are out of focus. The greater the distance between the foreground objects and background objects, the smaller the aperture opening required for proper depth-of-field.

 

Private Property - Public Access

Hotels, casinos, and most other business buildings are private property. Unless otherwise posted, photography is allowed on private property. Exceptions to this permission includes, but may not be limited to: military outposts and areas designated by the US Department of Homeland Security. If a photographer on private property is instructed by the landowner or an authorized representative; “Do not take photos” then no further photography is allowed.

However, under no circumstances is a photographer required to surrender film or equipment to a landowner or authorized representative. Taking of film or equipment by force is theft. Intimidation and threats can become the crime of coercion.

Another consideration: Under private property laws, photographs - even pictures from a street or sidewalk - of private property generally may not be sold for commercial purposes without consent from property owner.

 

Safety and Security

Remember that you and your camera equipment are interacting with other people. Take all necessary precautions to protect yourself and your equipment from theft, damage or harm. Never leave equipment unattended. Do not endanger others with your actions or equipment. Stay on sidewalks and cross only at designated crosswalks when indicated. Use the overhead pedestrian bridges whenever possible.

 

Recording History

Cityscape are in constant transition. Photographs become historical records.  Older hotels are razed and new resorts emerge. Following each landmark implosion only memories and photos will remain.

 

- David Allio

 

e8nv0191

 

Camera: Nikon Coolpix L3 point-and-shoot

Subject: Sunset Las Vegas

Technical Exposure Data:

Lens Focal Length: 6.3mm digital

ISO: 200 - Aperture: f/3.2 - Shutter Speed: 1/6th

Light Source: Ambient - 7:18pm PST

Camera WB Setting: Auto

Camera Support: Balcony Railing

 

© 2009 David Allio - All Rights Reserved

This material has been excerpted from the upcoming book: “101 Things Every Photographer Should Know” by David Allio. Additional information is available through the Allio Photography Workshops online at: www.DavidAllio.com.

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One Comment »

  • fernanda sinner said:

    i really like what you write!….it helps me alot, im doing a project for one of my classes in school called “project X” and i would really like to talk to someone about cityscape photography. it would be great if you could e-mail me back.

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